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  • Writer's picture35thscalemodeler

Painting, Weathering and Finishing Steps

Welcome back to the blog! In today's posting I will be providing my overall sequence for painting, weathering and finishing a 1/35 scale model. Of course this could be used in any scale that you may be working in. Now, this is the way I do it and by no means is this the written law of scale modeling painting and finishing. The images at the bottom show a completed DKW NZ350 using these steps (minus it being attached to a base- still in progress).

  1. Primer Coat

  2. Let dry 24 hours

  3. Pre-Shading (Black, Dark grey, Dark Brown, etc.- applied to areas of “dark shadow”- Acrylic)

  4. Let dry 24 hours

  5. Base Coat (Acrylic)

  6. Let dry 24 hours

  7. Modulation (Lighter Shades on center of panels, etc.- Acrylic)

  8. Highlight (Detail Points/ High Points- Acrylic)

  9. Using a very light color of the base color

  10. Detail Painting (Tools, Painted Markings, Dry Transfers, etc.- Acrylic)

  11. Protection Layer (Gloss)

  12. Only if applying waterslide decals

  13. Skip to Step 9 if not applying decals or if the markings are painted on.

  14. Decals (Micro Sol/ Micro Set)

  15. Protection Layer (Satin/ Semi-Gloss)

  16. Filter (using pre-mixed filter- enamel or diluted oil color)

  17. Apply over entire vehicle

  18. Let dry 24 hours

  19. Oil Dot Filters (Oil Paint Rendering- “The Rinaldi Method”)

  20. Sides- streaking/ stippling- pulling dots down; pointed motion

  21. Top- stumping/ stippling- circular motion; pointed motion

  22. Let dry at least 48-72 hours

  23. Dark Wash/ Pin Wash (using pre-mixed enamel wash or diluted oil color)

  24. Hitting all weld seams and crevices, around tool clamps, lights, etc.

  25. Chipping (Acrylic)

  26. Initial painted chips using lighter base color

  27. Then use a darker color (ie: German Camo Black Brown) inside the lighter chips

  28. Rust Tones (Over Chipping) (Acrylic)

  29. Apply a small rusty tone to the top of the darker color chips- randomly, not all the chips

  30. Let dry 24 hours

  31. Speckling Part 1 (applying small spots)

  32. Use the colored filter, rust wash, colored pigments and thinner- mixed; applied with a stencil brush

  33. Let dry 24 hours

  34. Apply rust tones to exhaust areas- as needed

  35. Paint initial rust color onto base painted exhausts (optional chipping method can be used)

  36. Apply pigments/ sealer over painted exhausts

  37. Rust Streaks

  38. If needed based on vehicle age, location, etc.

  39. Let dry 24 hours

  40. Earth Effects (Dust, Mud, etc.)

  41. Use based on location

  42. Ensure proper color/ consistency based on diorama products used- MUST MATCH EXACTLY

  43. Tracks (If vehicle uses them)

  44. Install after initial Earth Effects are applied- (pre-paint the tracks at Step 3)

  45. Rain Streaks (As needed)

  46. Let dry 24 hours

  47. Final Protection Layer (Flat)

  48. Let dry 24 hours

  49. Dry Earth Effects (Pigments)

  50. Use only if needed based on vehicle location

  51. Speckling Part 2 (applying more small spots)

  52. Use Earth Tones and thinner- mixed; applied with a stencil brush

  53. Damp Earth Tones (Pigments, etc.)

  54. Use only if needed based on vehicle location

  55. Exhaust Effects/ Soot

  56. Apply black pigments to tips of exhaust, areas where exhaust escapes

  57. Tracks (Installed in Step 18)

  58. Final Weathering (if needed to tie in diorama colors after final protection layer)

  59. Oil and Fuel Stains

  60. Applied sparingly as to not overdo the effect

  61. Let Model Dry Before Attaching to Base

  62. 24-48 hours drying time is best

DKW NZ350

DKW NZ350

DKW NZ350

DKW NZ350

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